By Rhonda Hanson

NORTH KINGSTOWN - Like fine wine originates from good grapes, absorbing characteristics from its environment, fine chocolate requires good cocoa beans.

"All the world's cocoa grows 30 percent above and below the equator," said Bernadette Cicione, co-owner of OceanState Chocolates, along with her sister Maryellen Cicione, president of the company. "It needs a tree line canopy and tropical climate to grow."

The African Ivory coast is where large manufacturers' cocoa comes from, but the more discriminating palate would choose "single origin" chocolate, meaning one crop, one plantation, one type of bean. Criollo is the superior indigenous bean going back to ancient times.

According to Bernadette, much of today's big business manufactured chocolate is a blend of hybrid beans, "the work dogs" she called them. Beans take on flavor - like grapes for wine - with soil, air, rainfall and temperature all contributing to the end result.

A Johnson and Wales grad with a food science background, Bernadette, enjoys the creative research and development aspect of the business while Maryellen tends to the business side of things as well as running their storefront in Wickford. Research and development is what led to a fine line of truffles filled with some surprising fillings.

Using local farms and their connections with Rhode Island farmer's markets, OceanState Chocolates offers a winter/spring collection that features; AppleJack, made from cider from Hill Orchard Farms in Johnston; Carrot Cake, made with organic carrots from Scratch Farm in Cranston; Rubeet, made with beets from Simmons Farm in Middletown; Sweetie Pie, made with organically grown Mooregold heirloom winter sweet squash from Rabbit's Dance Farm in Cumberland; Beebuzz, made with honey from Celestial Offerings Apiary in Slatersville; and Mocha Harvest made with espresso from New Harvest Coffee Roasters in Pawtucket.

Using local dairies, vineyards, farms and apiaries is of utmost importance to OceanState Chocolates, as quality ingredients are imperative to a quality product. Ingredient listings are always available upon request. "With all the stuff coming out of China recently we have more and more people taking an interest in that," she said.

Their cocoa beans and cocoa solids are imported from Ecuador and are grown on a vintage plantation. "People think we're lying when we tell them we use not less than 65 percent pure and up to 90 percent pure." Considering that 100 percent pure chocolate is baker's chocolate and is inedible in that form, she urges you to read the labels on manufactured chocolate bars where you'll see many additives, mostly cheap fats and lots of sugar. They incorporate 90 percent chocolate into truffles that do not need sugar added.

"This is why most people think chocolate is bad for you, this kind of chocolate with fillers, really is," she said. An integral part of their business philosophy is their commitment to supporting sustainable living and free trade in Rhode Island. A Rhode Island line of products called the Ocean State Truffle Collection features flavors of Rhode Island such as Del's Lemonade, Autocrat Coffee, Kenyon's Johnnycake mix, Charlie's Sugarhouse maple syrup, Sakonnet Vineyard red wine and Narragansett Beer.

So just how do you make a squash truffle, or a beet filled one? First of all it's a labor of love, but add a good dose of patience and skill. Bernadette learned to hand dip chocolates as an apprentice at the Candy Manor on Chatham, Cape Cod. A pastry chef by profession, with a Crisco baking contest for a chocolate pumpkin pie win under her belt, it has always been about the "pairings" of flavors in her artistic mind.

"Some pairs bring out characteristics in each other while others mask favors," she shared. The idea for the heirloom winter squash truffle came from the concept of a sweet potato pie. As for the Rubeet Truffle, "Once you cook it down, remove the water in it, add spices, wine and honey, it becomes what is called a "fruit mash." The jellied consistency takes on a sweet flavor, she said.

The family owned business originated on Federal Hill in Providence in 2003. They outgrew the space and found that they needed more space to manufacture and hand dip truffles. An ideal location opened up in North Kingstown where Bernadette was able to design her workspace. A storefront took shape at 4 Brown Street in Historic Wickford Village, an ideal place to offer Rhode Island based products, all of which have a little card and story attached with a history relating to things Rhode Island.

All of the products are available for purchase there as well as a line that just became available at Whole Foods Stores at University Heights and the new store located at Garden City. Did you ever want to try a bacon flavored chocolate bar? Picture this, a caramelization of bacon with brown sugar, honey and smoked almonds, wrapped with the finest chocolate, hmmm? From The Rose Island Lighthouse to a chocolate quahaug to a sand dollar with sugary "sand" to a Newport Mansion line of individually packaged chocolate confections, a very Rhode Island culinary treat awaits.

Each and every one is individually hand dipped in fine tempered chocolate that is at the perfect temperature, assuring the consumer a superior quality. It's not I Love Lucy with a conveyer belt of processes, it's each one made with love, and an acute attention to detail. The six-piece truffle collection costs $12.99.

As well, a line of savory products such as the Teriyaki Chocolate Sauce for grilling is available at the Wickford store. Try this special recipe out on Mom for Mother's Day. Treat her really special for all she does.

At least buy her some really awesome chocolates.

OceanState Chocolates Teriyaki Grilled Chicken Salad With Fresh Greens

Prep Chicken

4 skinless boneless chicken breast halves

8 tsp. OceanState Chocolates Cocoa Grilling Spices

Dry Rub

Rub 1 tsp. grilling spice on each side of chicken breasts. Place on plate and prepare marinade.

Marinade

In a small mixing bowl combine:

1 cup OceanState Chocolate Teriyaki Sauce

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tsp. olive oil

Directions

Whisk together until well blended. Pour into plastic zipper food storage bag. Place prepared rubbed chicken in bag with marinade. Place in fridge and let marinate for 2 hours.

Grill Chicken:

1. Preheat grill to medium high. Lightly oil or spray grill grates. Remove chicken from bag and discard marinade.

2. Place chicken on grill and cook 9 minutes on one side. Brush with additional Teriyaki Sauce before turning over. Brush grilled side with fresh sauce too.

3. Cook 7-9 minutes or until juices run clear when pierced with a fork. Remove from grill, place on a plate and cool in fridge while assembling salad.

Assemble Salad

Ingredients

1 Granny Smith apple, cut into small cubes

1 cup seedless grapes, sliced in half

1/2 cup sliced water chestnuts, halved

4 scallions, chopped finely

1/4 cup sliced almonds

cooked chicken breasts, cut into large cubes

Directions

1. Combine all in a bowl. Set aside in fridge while making Vinaigrette

Cocoa Nib Vinaigrette

In small mixing bowl combine:

3 tbls. Balsamic vinegar

2 tbls. minced shallots

2 tbls. OceanState Chocolate Cherry Chipolte Pomegranate Mustard

2 tbls. honey

2 tbls. brown sugar

1/4 cup mayonnaise

1/4 cup olive oil

2 tbls. OceanState Cocoa Nibs, crushed

1/2 tsp. Cocoa Grilling Spices

Whisk together until well combined. Pour over prepared salad, toss well to coat evenly.

Final Assembly

Arrange 1 bag of clean, fresh salad greens on a large platter. Place assembled salad in the center of the greens. Serve with slices of fresh bread. Serves 4.

Enjoy!